ShopTalk gears.gif (7834 bytes)

  • Title Page- Back Off Brake Light Module & L.E.D. Flashing License Frame
  • Original Author- Mike Ver Velde #3820

Because these pages may move to other servers from time to time, we have put this information on our server for all to view. If you are the original author, and you have a problem with that, please contact us and we will remove this page.
Please checkout the "Original Authors" web page.

Back Off Brake Light Module & L.E.D. Flashing License Frame

by: Mike Ver Velde #3820

Being electrically challenged, I relied on the tech board and the wonderful expertise from many people in the VRCC to install my Back Off flashing brake light set-up. Special thanks goes to Bill Pollack #3008 for the bulk of instructions. However, I learned that there are some differences between the Interstate (which he has) and Std./Tourer wiring set ups. Others on the board also threw in comments & new ideas that I incorporated here.  Since I just completed my installation this morning, wanted to put this collection of advice from a number of people together in one place- specifically for the Std./T crowd.   If you have an Interstate, refer to Bill Pollack’s instructions. 

I will use the new Honda Service Manual as a reference here.  I wrote this in a “Back Off Lights for Dummies” format.  (for people like me!) Hope this helps…


Back Off LED License frame: (I installed the frame with the LED on the bottom)

1)  Remove current license plate and frame

2)  Test fit license on back of LED frame; cut “V” notch w/ tin snips to fit around wire

3)   Put black heat-shrink tube (@3”) over wires, heat with lighter to shrink

4)  Remove rear fender (Manual 2-4)

i)  Open saddlebag lids (ignore if no bags)

ii)         Remove two bolts, washers that are bolted into chrome bar attached to fender (beneath sissy bars)

iii)    Remove chrome bolt attaching rear seat to fender (back of seat)

iv)         Carefully pull out fender, release wire harness from clamp, disconnect plastic connector, remove fender.  Remove nuts from fender.   

5)  Drill 3/8” hole in back of turn signal bracket -plastic chrome. (Manual 19-5) I drilled the hole thru the middle of the triangular opening of the black metal license plate attachment bracket

6)  Got a 7/16 x 3/16 stock rubber grommet, cut off the rubber “lip” of one side (they come shaped like an H, turned it into a T). Silicone glue grommet into 3/8” hole

7)  Screw on LED frame and license plate to license plate frame (I replaced license plate screws with flat head Phillips screw, washer, locknut. Can use hex, or chromed screws too)

8)  Remove two screws and license light stay cover (manual 19-5)

9)  Remove two screws that attaches license light assembly to fender, gently pull out assembly, leave wires connected (recommend using a cloth to put on fender as not to scratch as it wobbles around)

10)          Feed wires from LED into grommet hole, up thru hole to license light

11)          Cable tie LED wires to black metal license plate attachment bracket

12)          Feed RED wire thru fender grommet where other wires go through into fender

13)          Cut GREEN wire (the one that does not go into the light bulb socket), slip in a piece of heat-shrink tubing, splice and solder BLACK wire (from LED) to GREEN wire, slide heat-shrink tube over solder, heat tube with lighter to shrink

14)          Cut BROWN wire (the one going into light bulb socket), slip in a piece of heat-shrink tubing, splice and solder WHITE wire (from LED) to BROWN wire, slide heat-shrink tube over solder, heat tube with lighter to shrink.

15)          Put license light assembly back onto fender, screw nuts back on

16)          Put license light stay cover back on, screw bolts back on

17)          Turn Fender over, string RED wire along existing wires, under metal clamps, all the way up to grommet area that enters the rear taillight.  The taped bundle of wires split here, one goes to the plastic connector, and a bundle goes off to the rear taillight grommet. Can use cable ties

18)          Cut tape off of bundle of wires leading into grommet

19)          Cut GREEN/YELLOW wire, add heat-shrink tube, splice and solder to RED wire. Slip heat shrink tube over, heat with lighter to shrink.  Re-wrap all wires.

20)          Reverse steps given in #4 above and re-attach fender to beloved valk.


Back Off Brake Light Module:

1)  Remove Pilot seat (Manual 2-2…just in case)

2)  Remove throttle/right side cover (Manual 2-3)

3)  I attached (with the enclosed sticky tape) the module on the right side, in the compartment that holds the manual. It slides right in. (you can attach it anywhere, but I liked the idea of putting this in a protected and secure spot)

4)  Find the “Rear Sub-Wire Harness A” (a bundle of taped wires) that comes out of the top of the rear fender, along the right side, and connects to 5 crimp type wire connections covered by a rubber boot.  (Manual 1-25) Find the GREEN/YELLOW wire.  That is the brake light wire.  (note: some people indicate that the wire on the standard is a different color, but on my 99T, and the wiring diagram in the new 97-01 manual, it shows green/yellow. Rule of thumb: whichever wire you spliced the red LED wire to in the rear fender, it’s the same color- or should be!)

5)  Remove tape, slit the black plastic tube that covers the bundle, pull out and cut the GREEN/YELLOW wire.

6)  On the G/Y wire coming from the fender, attach and crimp on a MALE insulated connector.  On the other G/Y wire leading to the boot, attach and crimp on a FEMALE insulated connector.  (plug them in and test to see if brake light still works. If so, great, unplug)

7)  On the RED/WHITE wire, attach and crimp on a FEMALE insulated connector.  On the RED wire, attach and crimp on a MALE insulated connector.

8)  Connect the RED/WHITE wire to the G/Y wire that leads to the fender

9)  Connect the RED wire to the G/Y wire that leads to the boot.

10)          Test brake lights, they should give 5 flashes, then hold steady until you let off the brake.

11)          Re-tape black plastic tube; wrap wires with electrical tape to cover.

12)          Put on battery/manual lid, right side cover and seat.


NOTE: Soldered connections are more durable and last longer.  The reason for the insulated crimp on connectors, as advised, is if the back off module fails for some reason, you can easily disconnect the module, and re-attach the G/Y wires so the brake light still works. Better safe than sorry! This also gives you a choice if you do not want the brake light flashing.   Message Board    ShopTalk    Just Pics    Valkyrie Hot Links